St. Petersburg: Florida's Other Gay Coast

When it comes to gay travel in Florida, there's an entire coast that often gets overshadowed by the glitz of Miami and the big-budget tourism push of Fort Lauderdale.

But mention to residents of the St. Petersburg/Clearwater area that you're from that well-populated area to the southeast, and they just nod and flash a smile that comes much closer to pity than envy.

They'll forgo the traffic and the trendiness in favor of their 35 miles of white sand beaches, arts-minded community, and gay bars without attitude, thank you very much.

The laid-back peninsula, sandwiched between the Gulf of Mexico and Tampa Bay in the middle of Florida's west coast, is comprised of 24 municipalities -- the kind of towns where shops hawking seashells, miniature golf courses with giant pirate ships and ice cream stands shaped like oversize cones haven't been bulldozed to make way for Trump Towers. Or as one native says, "This is the kind of place where you shift your brain into neutral."

The 300-plus days of sunshine annually have made the peninsula's beaches the tourism-focused counterpart to Tampa's convention and business center over the causeway, 30 minutes east. But it's neither a community of beach bums nor an enclave for the elderly.

Over the past few years, St. Petersburg has seen an influx of gay business, the signs of major revitalization efforts along downtown's Central Avenue and an expansion of its already-vibrant arts scene.

St. Pete Pride will be held June 27, and it now presents one of the state's biggest LGBT pride festival, with an estimated 70,000 attending. The city is also home to the largest collection of Salvador Dali's works outside Spain, and houses a permanent exhibition from renowned glass artist Dale Chihuly, part of a downtown development project that includes retail space and condos. The nearby city of Gulfport, with its sherbet-colored homes and twice-monthly gallery walks, has a reputation as a lesbian mecca and haven for artists.

A rental car -- preferably a convertible -- is the most effective mode for exploring the sprawling beaches, parks, and downtown. Don't expect a major metropolis or Disney-style uniformity; St. Pete falls into a bohemian middle ground. Get into its groove and you'll soon find yourself singing loudly to '80s music with the top down.

Where to play

When it comes to gay nightlife, think casual. There's no need for Prada here. Don't miss the venerable Georgie's Alibi (3100 Third Ave. N.), by far the most attractive of the local gar bars. Friendly and festive, Alibi packs 'em in for Long Island iced tea nights Thursdays and stays busy through the weekend. It's the sister to the long-running Fort Lauderdale gay bar of the same name, but people actually dance at this location. (Perhaps the go-go boys inspire them.) Grand Central Station (2612 Central Ave; 727-327-8204) is connected to The Platform (2608 Central Ave; 727-327-8204) a leather/Levi bar, forming a sizable anchor in downtown's gay-popular Grand Central District.

In oh-so-gay-friendly Gulfport, The Oar House (4807 22nd Ave. S.; 727-327-1691) and PepperZ (4918 22nd Ave. S.; 727-327-4897) share the same owners, the same divey style, and are both connected to a liquor store. (Drink in or carry out!) Clearwater boasts the granddaddy of all the local gay bars: the Pro Shop Pub (840 Cleveland St; 727-447-4259).

The beach scene

Even if you're not a sun worshipper, don't miss taking a leisurely walk along the Gulf of Mexico, where dolphins are frequently spotted just offshore. Clearwater Beach to the north of the peninsula and St. Pete Beach to the south draw the biggest crowds. Join gay bathers at Sunset Beach, at the southern tip of Treasure Island, or laid-back Pass-A-Grille Beach, located in a sleepy residential community that was homesteaded in 1886 at the southern end of St. Pete Beach.

Natural beauty abounds in Fort De Soto Park, which connects to the southern end of the peninsula via bridges. Its North Beach claimed the No. 1 spot on Dr. Beach's "America's Best Beaches" list in 2005.

To really get away from the crowds, head north to Clearwater and take the ferry to Caladesi Island State Park, an undeveloped gem that's home to armadillos, wading birds, a three-mile nature trail, and another highly rated beach.

Get into the spirit of St. Pete with Kayoga (664 Central Ave; 727-895-9593), which combines paddling a kayak to one of the barrier islands near Fort De Soto with practicing yoga on a glistening white-sand beach. Tim Ganley, who conceived the trips, just might be the gay-friendliest straight man on the planet.

City highlights

Spanish painter Salvador Dali claimed he never used mind-altering substances to creates his surrealist masterpieces, but there's no denying that visiting the Salvador Dali Museum (1000 Third St. S.; 800-442-3254 or 727-823-3767) is quite a trip.

On a more traditional note, the Museum of Fine Arts (255 Beach Drive NE; 727-896-2667) houses a charming 4,600-piece collection ranging from Monet and Cezanne to African sculptures and regularly hosts touring shows.

Stock up on fresh produce, cheeses, and seafood for the condo fridge at the Saturday Morning Market (early October to late May; Central Avenue at Second Street) where you'll also spy plenty of gay locals in the mix.

Where to grab a bite

Gay-friendly businesses are plentiful in downtown St. Pete around Central Avenue. Dive into gay-owned Bella Brava (515 Central Ave; 727-895-5515) at lunchtime for salads, pizza, and paninis with yummy parmesan fries. Take the gang or a date to Ceviche (Ponce de Leon Hotel; 10 Beach Drive SE; 727-209-2302) to share tasty, authentic Spanish tapas.

Café Alma (260 First Ave. S., #100; 727-502-5002), with its basement locale, sets the mood for a romantic dinner; but it's also popular for its Saturday brunch with a build-your-own bloody Mary bar. For a major brunch splurge, sashay through the crimson draperies at Marchand's Bar and Grill in the luxurious Renaissance Vinoy Hotel (501 Fifth Ave NE; 727-894-1000) built in 1925.

Gay-owned The King and I Thai Restaurant (445 Central Ave; 727-898-8056; $9-17) is a pleasant, inexpensive stop for lunch or dinner, while gay-owned coffeehouse Café Dolce (2444 Central Ave; 727-327-3990) in the Grand Central District makes superb sandwiches and keeps the local gay publications on hand.

Watch the sun sink into Boca Ciega Bay from the second-floor deck of Gulfport's Aqua Bella Raw Bar and Grill (3128 Beach Blvd. S., Gulfport; 727-328-8280) while nibbling on super-fresh fish courtesy of Hook's, which operates the downstairs sushi bar (and has another location in downtown St. Pete, 1210 Ninth St. N.; 727-898-HOOK).

Home away from home

Settling in on the water for a day, a week, or a month is as simple as calling Condos by Sirata (office at 18131 Gulf Blvd, Redington Shores; 877-4-SIRATA or 727-319-8701). Properties include the Hotel Isis in Redington Shores, the charming 10-unit Coconut Villas across the street, and the Boca Ciega condos on the bay of the same name -- all of which blend tropical touches with recent upgrades.

Cuddle up with your honey at gay-friendly La Veranda (111 Fifth Ave. N; 800-484-8423, ext. 8471 or 727-824-9997) a quirky, rambling B&B with, yep, expansive verandas, and a convenient-to-downtown locale. Lesbian-owned Changing Tides (225 Boca Ciega Drive, Madeira Beach; 727-397-7706) on Boca Ciega Harbor markets its basic, clean cottages to "family." (Pets welcome, too!)

For more gay-friendly accommodations, request a copy of the visitor's resource guide from the St. Pete/Clearwater Area Convention and Visitor's Bureau (877-352-3224) and look for properties marked with a rainbow.