Here's your must-have road map to 72 hours in one of the world's gayest destinations. Where to stay, eat, play and meet in energetic Madrid.
By day it is a pleasant enough city that is well known for its cultural and political significance, but it is certainly not Europe's (or even Spain's) most interesting destination. That aside, there is still enough to keep the red-eyed tourist busy, including a trio of world-class art museums. It is really not until after midnight that the closet doors burst open and the city springs to life. So, in the words of the well-known toast: Arriba, abajo, al centro, pa' dentro...or, in simple English: bottoms up!
LAY OF THE LAND
Madrid has managed to preserve the look and feel of its historic areas, making the neighborhoods really worth a visit. Notable landmarks include the Royal Palace of Madrid, the Teatro Real (Royal Theater), and the city center's Buen Retiro park, which was first established in the early 1600s as private gardens for royalty.
The city is also a walker's paradise. Its main east-west street is the early 20th century Gran Vía, running from the Prado area to the modern Plaza de España. Roughly parallel, the c. Mayor leads through the city's medieval heart, from the Puerta del Sol, Spain's "kilometer zero" from which all of the country's destinations are measured, past charming Plaza Mayor, Madrid's prettiest square, to c. de Bailén, near the Royal Palace.
The "village of Chueca" -- the local gay ghetto, located in the neighborhood that was once Madrid's outer limit (and still is in many ways) -- lies just north of Gran Vía and west of the broad Paseo de la Castellana. The area's been spruced up in recent years and no longer has the seedy feel it once did. There's a serviceable subway system, and cabs aren't tremendously expensive -- but the city's so compact, we suggest you walk.
STAY
Hotel Ritz (Plaza de la Lealtad, 5; +34-91-701-6767 or 800-223-6800, fax +34-91-532-8776; reservations@ritz.es; from 220 EUR) is the city's luxury leader, perched in aloof splendor on a quiet street near the Prado Museum. It's stuffy and certainly not inexpensive, but the antique-decorated rooms and refined atmosphere of this Belle Epoque masterpiece make it worth the splurge.
The Westin Palace (Plaza de las Cortes, 7; +34-91-360-8000 or 800-325-3589, fax +34-91-360-8100; Reservations.Palacemadrid@westin.com; from 269 EUR), now a member of ITT's Luxury Collection, underwent a renovation and subsequently upgraded itself quite a bit. Its spiffed-up rooms (they even queried guests as to preferred color scheme) attract a combination of trendoids and group tours. Relax over tea or cocktails in its stunning rotunda.
A great bet for proximity to the city's nightlife is the well-placed property that was once the Tryp Hotel Reina Victoria, but is now ME Madrid (Plaza de Santa Ana, 14; +34-91-701-6000, fax +34-91-522-0307; memadrid@solmelia.com; from 189 EUR) located on Plaza de Santa Ana and surrounded by popular restaurants and bars.
DAY 1: HOME IS WHERE THE ART IS
Like many European cities with the Mediterranean mindset, Madrid starts its day slowly. It's no surprise when you consider that much of the population would have been out until daybreak the night before - just about every night of the week. So sleep to your heart's content and get up at your leisure to start your day. First stop will be your daily dose of cortado (a shot of espresso with just a dash of steamed milk), and a nice piece of tortilla española. Be sure to put on your walking shoes and bring your eye drops; it's time for an art extravaganza. Make your way to the Golden Triangle of Art, which consists of three of the most spectacular art museums in the world, all located along the Paseo del Prado.
Plan to spend an your morning at the Museo del Prado (Paseo del Prado; +34-91-420-2836) lost in the remarkable collections of Goya, Velázquez, and El Greco as well as masterpieces by Titian, Raphael, Rubens, and many others.
The nearby Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza (Paseo del Prado, 8; +34-91-369-0151) houses a good modern collection in a former palace, while the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia (Calle Museo NacionalSanta Isabel, 52; +34-91-744 10 00), mainly known as the home of Picasso's Guernica, also features Dalí, Miró, and other contemporary artists.
In between museums, take a short stroll to nearby Plaza Santa Ana, where you'll find some of Madrid's best and most authentic restaurants. Just around the corner from the plaza is Casa Alberto (Calle Huertos, 18; +34-91-429-93-56, fax +34-91-429-0706; 35 - 40 EUR), founded in 1827, which serves classic Madrileño tapas in old-world style.
After your art fix, head back to the hotel and take a little siesta -- shops are closed in the afternoon anyway, and you'll need your energy for the night ahead. On your first evening, it's worth exploring the fun, funky Chueca district, home to most of the gay action in town. Get to know your way around; you'll be back.
The first stop on any gay traveler's shopping list is Librería Berkana (Calle Hortaleza, 64; +34-91-532-1393), the well-stocked and modern gay bookstore at the top of Plaza Chueca. The friendly and knowledgeable staff will tell you all you need to know about Madrid's gay life, and the selection of books (many in English), cards, and assorted ephemera is quite impressive. Another popular bookstore in the area is A Different Life (CallePelayo, 30; +33-91-532-9652), a two-level bookstore with an annex down the street. The friendly owners will point you in the right direction. Be sure to pick up a gay map of the city, such as MENsual, and a copy of ShangayExpress to get in touch with the latest in the social scene.
Dinner in Madrid never begins earlier than 10 p.m. and that's even early in some cases. For a meal that nourishes the soul as well as the body, hit up Gula Gula (c. Gran Via, 1; +34-91-522-87-64; 30 EUR); it has an outrageous salad bar/buffet, but only half as outrageous as the nightly drag shows and the hunky, punky waiters. The crowd can skew more straight than gay, but it's a guaranteed wild night regardless. The show lets out after midnight, but the night is still young -- most bars don't get hopping until midnight, and the discos really heat up at around 3 a.m.
Pop in for a drink at Why Not? (c. San Bartolomé 7); it opens around 10:30 p.m., but things don't get going until much later at this funky, subterranean bar that features good music and a mixed, friendly crowd. If you've still got the stamina to go dancing, Refugio (Calle Doctor Cortezo 1; +34-91-369-4038; 7 EUR), in its cave-like setting, is hottest on Friday nights. And remember, if you're in bed before sunrise, you're not getting the full Madrid nightlife experience.
Like many European cities with the Mediterranean mindset, Madrid starts its day slowly. It's no surprise when you consider that much of the population would have been out until daybreak the night before - just about every night of the week. So sleep to your heart's content and get up at your leisure to start your day. First stop will be your daily dose of cortado (a shot of espresso with just a dash of steamed milk), and a nice piece of tortilla española. Be sure to put on your walking shoes and bring your eye drops; it's time for an art extravaganza. Make your way to the Golden Triangle of Art, which consists of three of the most spectacular art museums in the world, all located along the Paseo del Prado.
Plan to spend an your morning at the Museo del Prado (Paseo del Prado; +34-91-420-2836) lost in the remarkable collections of Goya, Velázquez, and El Greco as well as masterpieces by Titian, Raphael, Rubens, and many others.
The nearby Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza (Paseo del Prado, 8; +34-91-369-0151) houses a good modern collection in a former palace, while the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia (Calle Museo NacionalSanta Isabel, 52; +34-91-744 10 00), mainly known as the home of Picasso's Guernica, also features Dalí, Miró, and other contemporary artists.
In between museums, take a short stroll to nearby Plaza Santa Ana, where you'll find some of Madrid's best and most authentic restaurants. Just around the corner from the plaza is Casa Alberto (Calle Huertos, 18; +34-91-429-93-56, fax +34-91-429-0706; 35 - 40 EUR), founded in 1827, which serves classic Madrileño tapas in old-world style.
After your art fix, head back to the hotel and take a little siesta -- shops are closed in the afternoon anyway, and you'll need your energy for the night ahead. On your first evening, it's worth exploring the fun, funky Chueca district, home to most of the gay action in town. Get to know your way around; you'll be back.
The first stop on any gay traveler's shopping list is Librería Berkana (Calle Hortaleza, 64; +34-91-532-1393), the well-stocked and modern gay bookstore at the top of Plaza Chueca. The friendly and knowledgeable staff will tell you all you need to know about Madrid's gay life, and the selection of books (many in English), cards, and assorted ephemera is quite impressive. Another popular bookstore in the area is A Different Life (CallePelayo, 30; +33-91-532-9652), a two-level bookstore with an annex down the street. The friendly owners will point you in the right direction. Be sure to pick up a gay map of the city, such as MENsual, and a copy of ShangayExpress to get in touch with the latest in the social scene.
Dinner in Madrid never begins earlier than 10 p.m. and that's even early in some cases. For a meal that nourishes the soul as well as the body, hit up Gula Gula (c. Gran Via, 1; +34-91-522-87-64; 30 EUR); it has an outrageous salad bar/buffet, but only half as outrageous as the nightly drag shows and the hunky, punky waiters. The crowd can skew more straight than gay, but it's a guaranteed wild night regardless. The show lets out after midnight, but the night is still young -- most bars don't get hopping until midnight, and the discos really heat up at around 3 a.m.
Pop in for a drink at Why Not? (c. San Bartolomé 7); it opens around 10:30 p.m., but things don't get going until much later at this funky, subterranean bar that features good music and a mixed, friendly crowd. If you've still got the stamina to go dancing, Refugio (Calle Doctor Cortezo 1; +34-91-369-4038; 7 EUR), in its cave-like setting, is hottest on Friday nights. And remember, if you're in bed before sunrise, you're not getting the full Madrid nightlife experience.
DAY 2: THE ROYAL TREATMENT
By now you're probably beginning to understand why Madrid wakes up so late. Nevertheless, it's time to drag your weary bones out for the ritual morning cortado and head west to the Palacio Real/Royal Palace (Callede Bailén/Plaza de Oriente; +34-91-542-0059), which offers tours through its sumptuously furnished rooms. The armory is not to be missed. Pause in the newly renovated Plaza de Oriente before heading to the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Plaza de las Descalzas Reales; +34-91-521-2779), a rich art collection -- fabulous tapestries -- in this 16th-century Monastery of the Royal Barefoot Franciscans.
After your second day of cultural experiences, pop in for lunch at Restaurante Miau (Plaza Santa Ana, 6; +34-91-429-22-72; 30 EUR, but with a lunch menu available from 10 EUR), a charmingly designed restaurant that serves some of the finest Madrileño cuisine. It's also great for tapas in the evening, or dinner in the dining room downstairs. After eating and a few of the local sangrias you'll be ready for your daily siesta and you know you'll need it for the night.
As evening falls, wend your way back to the Chueca to XXX Bar (c. San Marcos, 8), a popular meeting spot in the heart of the Chueca. Locals gather here to reconnoiter before heading off to dinner and their late-evening plans. Despite its provocative name, it's just a pleasant neighborhood bar. If you've got a hankering for paella, you're in luck. The gay-owned and gay-staffed Arroceria Gala (Moratin, 22; +34-91-429-2562; from 20 EUR) has a lovely atmosphere with a covered courtyard, which gives the impression of being outdoors, but is heated in winter. All shades of the Spanish rice specialty are served on an inexpensive fixed-price menu.
For the requisite post-prandial bar stop, feel free to return to XXX Bar, where you can watch the parade of Chueca boys milling around the district, or stop into Corazón Negro (CalleColmenares, 5). This is the comfiest spot in Chueca, with a scattering of sofas, offbeat art that changes before your eyes (watch your waiter arrange a bizarre creation in between your drink orders), and a cozy but chic feel. After, Ohm (Plaza Callao 4; +34-91-531-0132; Entrance fee from 12 EUR) is a classic gay dance party held at Salsa Bash every Friday and Saturday night, though the crowd is increasingly more mixed these days. If you enjoy house music, go-go dancers and good ambience, this is the place to be.
Royal Dance Coolture (CalleIsabel la Catolica, 6; +34-91-542-3439) is held at the event venue/ballroom known as Cool, and is just a five-minute walk from Ohm. It is one of Madrid's nicest with two floors, sleek décor and retro lighting. The entrance and stairway alone will grab your attention as you come in. The crowd is somewhat mixed, with the greater majority being gay men on Saturdays. Don't stop there if the sun isn't up yet, go instead to Pasapoga (Gran Vía, 37; +34-91-532-1642).
DAY 3: FLEA MARKETS AND FASHION MALLS
Wipe the crumbs from your eyes, drag yourself out of bed and get yourself adequately caffeinated to tackle the day. You've seen many of the cultural highlights of the city, and now it's time to go shopping.
While many of the big stores like El Corte Inglès and FNAC are centered around the Puerta del Sol, if you want a single orgy of spending, go to Goya and nearby Serrano and Velázquez streets in the chi-chi Salamanca district. El Jardin de Serrano (Calle de Goya 6-8) is an elegant shopping center in Salamanca; its exclusive stores include Llanes, a well-known jewelry purveyor, Azul for classic men's clothing and Aghata for accessories and costume jewelry.
While on this posh street, Imelda Marcos wannabes should check out the great shoe selection at Geltra (Calle de Goya, 65, +34-91-576-4073), while raffish men flock to Massimo Dutti (c. de Goya, 73; +34-91-431-3900), a sophisticated clothing store. ABC Serrano Centro Comercial (entrances at La Castellana 34 and Serrano 61; +34-91-577-5031), a newer arcade located in the former ABC newspaper headquarters, houses such shops as Musgo for accessories, housewares, and gifts, and a popular branch of Zara (+34-91-575-6334), a fashionable men's and women's boutique.
If it's Sunday, remember that little will be open. Still, there's shopping to be had. El Rastro (in the area around c. Ribera de Curtidores) is the huge weekend flea market, sprawling through the streets of the area. You'll see everything here from antique bric-a-brac to original artwork. Get there early for the best action. Also on Sunday in the Plaza Mayor is an impressive and interesting flea market of stamps, coins and ephemera.
If you grow tired of Spanish food -- and you will -- there are a handful of serviceable Italian restaurants in town. Pasta Nostra-Pizza Notra (Jovellanos, 5 or Carrera de San Jerónimo, 32; +34-91-360-0827; from 20 EUR) offers handmade pastas and authentic pizzas for lunch and dinner, although their "prosciutto" looks suspiciously like jamòn serrano. And of course, be sure to make it back to your hotel room for the siesta, lest you fall face-forward into your pizza margherita. Tonight is your last night to enjoy Madrid.
If you haven't done so already, spend some time just admiring the city, appreciating the myriad fountains and ostentatious, Baroque architecture. After dark, the fountains are spectacularly lit. If you're feeling particularly highfalutin, stop in for a sherry under the stunning rotunda at the Westin Palace. Restaurante Botin (Cuchilleros, 17; +34-91-366-4217; 40 EUR) is the place to go for those who can't resist a Hemingway haunt. Both the food and service are excellent. Open since 1725, it's one of the oldest restaurants in the world.
By now you're probably beginning to understand why Madrid wakes up so late. Nevertheless, it's time to drag your weary bones out for the ritual morning cortado and head west to the Palacio Real/Royal Palace (Callede Bailén/Plaza de Oriente; +34-91-542-0059), which offers tours through its sumptuously furnished rooms. The armory is not to be missed. Pause in the newly renovated Plaza de Oriente before heading to the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Plaza de las Descalzas Reales; +34-91-521-2779), a rich art collection -- fabulous tapestries -- in this 16th-century Monastery of the Royal Barefoot Franciscans.
After your second day of cultural experiences, pop in for lunch at Restaurante Miau (Plaza Santa Ana, 6; +34-91-429-22-72; 30 EUR, but with a lunch menu available from 10 EUR), a charmingly designed restaurant that serves some of the finest Madrileño cuisine. It's also great for tapas in the evening, or dinner in the dining room downstairs. After eating and a few of the local sangrias you'll be ready for your daily siesta and you know you'll need it for the night.
As evening falls, wend your way back to the Chueca to XXX Bar (c. San Marcos, 8), a popular meeting spot in the heart of the Chueca. Locals gather here to reconnoiter before heading off to dinner and their late-evening plans. Despite its provocative name, it's just a pleasant neighborhood bar. If you've got a hankering for paella, you're in luck. The gay-owned and gay-staffed Arroceria Gala (Moratin, 22; +34-91-429-2562; from 20 EUR) has a lovely atmosphere with a covered courtyard, which gives the impression of being outdoors, but is heated in winter. All shades of the Spanish rice specialty are served on an inexpensive fixed-price menu.
For the requisite post-prandial bar stop, feel free to return to XXX Bar, where you can watch the parade of Chueca boys milling around the district, or stop into Corazón Negro (CalleColmenares, 5). This is the comfiest spot in Chueca, with a scattering of sofas, offbeat art that changes before your eyes (watch your waiter arrange a bizarre creation in between your drink orders), and a cozy but chic feel. After, Ohm (Plaza Callao 4; +34-91-531-0132; Entrance fee from 12 EUR) is a classic gay dance party held at Salsa Bash every Friday and Saturday night, though the crowd is increasingly more mixed these days. If you enjoy house music, go-go dancers and good ambience, this is the place to be.
Royal Dance Coolture (CalleIsabel la Catolica, 6; +34-91-542-3439) is held at the event venue/ballroom known as Cool, and is just a five-minute walk from Ohm. It is one of Madrid's nicest with two floors, sleek décor and retro lighting. The entrance and stairway alone will grab your attention as you come in. The crowd is somewhat mixed, with the greater majority being gay men on Saturdays. Don't stop there if the sun isn't up yet, go instead to Pasapoga (Gran Vía, 37; +34-91-532-1642).
DAY 3: FLEA MARKETS AND FASHION MALLS
Wipe the crumbs from your eyes, drag yourself out of bed and get yourself adequately caffeinated to tackle the day. You've seen many of the cultural highlights of the city, and now it's time to go shopping.
While many of the big stores like El Corte Inglès and FNAC are centered around the Puerta del Sol, if you want a single orgy of spending, go to Goya and nearby Serrano and Velázquez streets in the chi-chi Salamanca district. El Jardin de Serrano (Calle de Goya 6-8) is an elegant shopping center in Salamanca; its exclusive stores include Llanes, a well-known jewelry purveyor, Azul for classic men's clothing and Aghata for accessories and costume jewelry.
While on this posh street, Imelda Marcos wannabes should check out the great shoe selection at Geltra (Calle de Goya, 65, +34-91-576-4073), while raffish men flock to Massimo Dutti (c. de Goya, 73; +34-91-431-3900), a sophisticated clothing store. ABC Serrano Centro Comercial (entrances at La Castellana 34 and Serrano 61; +34-91-577-5031), a newer arcade located in the former ABC newspaper headquarters, houses such shops as Musgo for accessories, housewares, and gifts, and a popular branch of Zara (+34-91-575-6334), a fashionable men's and women's boutique.
If it's Sunday, remember that little will be open. Still, there's shopping to be had. El Rastro (in the area around c. Ribera de Curtidores) is the huge weekend flea market, sprawling through the streets of the area. You'll see everything here from antique bric-a-brac to original artwork. Get there early for the best action. Also on Sunday in the Plaza Mayor is an impressive and interesting flea market of stamps, coins and ephemera.
If you grow tired of Spanish food -- and you will -- there are a handful of serviceable Italian restaurants in town. Pasta Nostra-Pizza Notra (Jovellanos, 5 or Carrera de San Jerónimo, 32; +34-91-360-0827; from 20 EUR) offers handmade pastas and authentic pizzas for lunch and dinner, although their "prosciutto" looks suspiciously like jamòn serrano. And of course, be sure to make it back to your hotel room for the siesta, lest you fall face-forward into your pizza margherita. Tonight is your last night to enjoy Madrid.
If you haven't done so already, spend some time just admiring the city, appreciating the myriad fountains and ostentatious, Baroque architecture. After dark, the fountains are spectacularly lit. If you're feeling particularly highfalutin, stop in for a sherry under the stunning rotunda at the Westin Palace. Restaurante Botin (Cuchilleros, 17; +34-91-366-4217; 40 EUR) is the place to go for those who can't resist a Hemingway haunt. Both the food and service are excellent. Open since 1725, it's one of the oldest restaurants in the world.
Baires Café (Calle Gravina, 4; +34-91- 532-9879), back in the Chueca, is a café/bar, with a slick, modern interior bathed in blue light and a hip crowd. It's popular both for pre-dinner drinks and late-night lounging. On Sunday nights, visit the Shangay Tea Dance (+34-91-308-4539), sponsored by the local gay paper and drawing a young, mixed crowd. Only in Madrid would a tea dance begin at 9 p.m. -- and it doesn't start to get crowded until just before 10:30 p.m. when the free passes available aound town expire. Hope your flight isn't too early the next morning!
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