Saturday 19 September 2009

From: Barcelona Photoblog

Carrer Petritxol Street Sign, Barri Gotic, Barcelona

Carrer Petritxol Street Sign, Barri Gotic, Barcelona [enlarge]

Carrer Petritxol, one of the most representative streets in Barri Gotic, Barcelona, stretches from Portaferrisa street (mentioned in the sign as the only exit for vehicles at the other end of the alley) and Plaça del Pi. It goes almost parallel to Las Ramblas (two blocks away) and it is definitely one of my favorites. I showed a picture of Petritxol street here once and also referred to famous xocolata amb xurros (churros consist of dough which is later fried and powdered with sugar, preferably to be dipped in hot chocolate) served at La Pallaresa or at Dulcinea, Petritxol 2. But this road is not only about the pleasant smell of chocolate, it is also about art and both modern and old boutiques. The renown Sala Pares founded in 1840 and the center of Barcelona's artistic life by the end of XIX is the main art gallery at Petritxol 5. It is said that it was due to the presence of such galleries that the churro houses were established in the first place. The whole bohemian atmosphere is sustained by the presence of painters selling their work in the square nearby next to Santa Maria del Pi church. Petritxol is more or less 2 meters wide on the Plaça del Pi side. The name probably comes from portitxol (Cat.) (small door) and its origin is connected perhaps to a negotiated access from Portaferrisa to the only Christian church that was left in Saracen times in the area. Christians lived outside the wall in El Raval and had to walk a long way to a very early Mass that wouldn't interfere with Muslim morning prayers. A short and thus faster way would facilitate their attendance on time. It is said that an old priest found a hidden treasure left behind by the Christians and convinced the Emir into building the passageway. Believe it or not there was some sort of peaceful coexistence between Muslims, Christians and Jews at the times although all of this was about to change. The story behind the street is part of a legend so don't take my word on it. Here is Calle de Petritxol on a map.

Graffiti on Ancient Door, Casa de la Congregació de la Puríssima Sang, Plaza del Pi, Barcelona

Graffiti on Ancient Door [enlarge]

Well, not much. Some flashy graffiti on some Barri Gotic rickety door. An interesting combination of present and past considering in this case, that the door belongs to an ancient building. And there is where this spontaneous, beautiful artistic manifestation loses every righteous meaning and becomes insulting to the eye of anyone who respects Barcelona's cultural heritage. This magnificent door is located at Plaza del Pi number 1. It is one of the entrances to the Casa de la Congregació de la Puríssima Sang (House of the Congregation of the Holy Blood) built in 1342 upon Santa Maria del Pi church rectory. It was later remodeled in 1613 and 1789. On top of the door there is an encryption in Latin related to the activity of the congregation. I tried to google the meaning and not without some trouble I found this: "And I will pass through the land of Egypt that night, and will kill every firstborn in the land of Egypt, both man and beast: and against all the gods of Egypt I will execute judgments; I am the Lord and the blood shall be unto you for a sign in the houses where you shall be; and I shall see the blood, and shall pass over you; and the plague shall not be upon you to destroy you, when I shall strike the land of Egypt" Exodus XII (strange cause the encryption seems to read XI). Guess what, their mission was to offer spiritual support to those sentenced to death on their way to the scaffold. Early in the morning, members wearing black robes and hoods gathered in this very house to grab the Holy Christ figure and go for the condemned to start the walk towards their final destination. After the execution took place bodies were buried in the church graveyard which happened to be where the square is at present. So, going back to the start, and although the building is somehow neglected by authorities, do you think this graffiti has been drawn on the right place? Check the exact location on my Barcelona map.

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